Beginner’s Indoor Mushroom Growing Guide: Boost Your Microgreens Business with Lion’s Mane & Oyster Varieties

Indoor mushroom growing for beginners

Dedicated to Mr. Kelly

Introduction:

Interested in indoor mushroom growing for beginners? This guide will walk you through setting up a small-scale indoor mushroom farm – perfect for a 10’x10’ space or even a compact “Martha” grow tent. We’ll cover five beginner-friendly species: Lion’s Mane, Golden Oyster, Blue Oyster, Pink Oyster, and Italian Oyster. These mushrooms can complement your existing microgreens business, providing a new product for your farmer’s market stall. By the end, you’ll know how to prepare substrates, maintain ideal temperature and humidity, and harvest beautiful mushroom crops – even with no prior mushroom experience.

Planning Your Indoor Growing Space

Choosing a Location: Dedicate an indoor area (up to 10’x10’) where you can control humidity and airflow. Many hobby growers use a Martha Tent, which is essentially a tiny, enclosed shelving unit made of plastic to create a humid chamber. This contained space allows you to control and optimize temperature and moisture for mushrooms without turning your entire room into a swamp. Common locations include basements, spare rooms, or even a corner of a garage – anywhere you can maintain stable temperatures (roughly 60–75 °F, depending on the species). Ensure the area can tolerate high humidity (85–95%) without causing mildew on walls or furniture.

Martha Tent Setup: You can purchase a mini greenhouse or portable closet and retrofit it to serve as a mushroom fruiting chamber. Line it with 3–5 tiers of shelving to hold your mushroom bags or blocks. The clear plastic cover helps retain humidity while letting you peek at your mushrooms. The beauty of a Martha Tent is its flexibility and small footprint – it can fit in a closet or kitchen corner and be scaled to nearly any budget. If you don’t use a tent, you’ll need to improvise another enclosed chamber (e.g., a large plastic storage bin or a DIY cabinet) to maintain high humidity.

Cleanliness: Mushrooms aren’t as fussy as microgreens about sterility, but a clean environment helps prevent contamination. Choose a space that is easy to clean and wipe down. Avoid carpeted rooms, as they harbor dust and mold spores. Before starting each cycle, clean surfaces with a mild bleach or alcohol solution. While colonizing, mushrooms release CO₂, so ensure some fresh air exchange to prevent stale air buildup (more on this later). Luckily, if you are growing microgreens, you likely already practice cleanliness – extend those habits to your mushroom area.

Essential Equipment and Supplies

To get started, gather some essential equipment. You can often begin with budget-friendly DIY hacks, then upgrade pieces as you grow more confident or expand production:

Shelving & Enclosure: A plastic 4-tier mini greenhouse or a metal rack wrapped in painter’s plastic can serve as a Martha Tent (DIY option). For an upgrade, consider a grow tent—a small indoor gardening tent—with shelves, such as those available at Redwood Mushroom Supply. They are sturdier and often have ports for wiring fans and humidifiers. A size of ~4’x2’x5’ is typical for Martha setups, accommodating several grow bags.
Humidifier: Maintaining high humidity levels is crucial. A simple ultrasonic humidifier or cool-mist vaporizer (available at pharmacies) set on a timer can mist your tent, offering a low-cost option. Ensure it is ultrasonic for a fine mist. As an upgrade, some growers use an ultrasonic pond fogger in a bucket with a fan that pushes mist into the tent via a hose. Aim for 85–95% RH (relative humidity) during fruiting for best results. Use a hygrometer to monitor RH.
Fresh Air Exchange (FAE): Mushrooms breathe oxygen and release CO₂, so they need airflow to prevent CO₂ buildup (which causes stemmy, deformed mushrooms). A DIY approach is to unzip or vent the tent a few times a day and fan in fresh air. For automation, you can install a small computer fan or an inline duct fan to pull out stale air periodically. Blue Oysters, in particular, demand high levels of fresh air, so plan for adequate ventilation.
Lighting: Unlike microgreens, mushrooms do not need intense light – but a little light helps them develop proper form and color. A simple 6500K LED bulb or fluorescent bulb placed nearby on a 12-hour cycle is sufficient. Even ambient daylight in a room is usually okay. (Pink and golden oysters have better color with some light; too little light can make oyster caps pale or malformed.) Budget option: a clip-on lamp; upgrade: an LED strip with a timer.
Temperature Control: Most species here fruit well between ~60–75 °F. If your grow space falls within that range, you may not need additional heating or cooling. However, Lion’s Mane likes it cool (mid-60s °F), and Pink Oysters like it warm (75–85 °F). Use a rudimentary thermometer. If needed, a small space heater or air conditioner can adjust the room’s temperature. Aim to avoid extreme swings. Many growers find that a normal room temperature of ~68–72 °F is a workable compromise for mixed species.
Containers & Tools: You’ll need grow bags (autoclavable poly bags with filter patches) or alternative containers for your substrate. Poly bags are cheap and effective for all species – you’ll cut holes in them for mushrooms to emerge. In a pinch, even plastic buckets or large Ziploc bags with slits can work for oysters. Other handy items include a spray bottle (for misting), disposable gloves, a large pot (for pasteurizing the substrate), and a knife or scissors for harvesting. If you're creating your own sterilized substrate, you’ll eventually want a pressure cooker (a modest investment, but not strictly required if you start with pre-made spawn and pasteurized substrates).
Spawn or Cultures: For beginners, plan to buy mushroom spawn (the “seed” for your mushroom crop) from a reputable supplier rather than making your own. Spawn comes as sterilized grain or sawdust fully colonized with mushroom mycelium. Standard sizes are 1 or 5-pound bags, which can inoculate 5–20 times their weight in bulk substrate, depending on the ratio. Using purchased spawn eliminates the need for Petri dishes or lab work in the early stages. We’ll cover spawn use in the steps below. (Advanced upgrade: If you later invest in a pressure cooker and sterile techniques, you can propagate your spawn from cultures, lowering the cost per crop.)

Tip: Many microgreen growers already have items such as shelving, trays, and fans on hand. You can often repurpose equipment – for example, use an extra wire rack for your tent frame or utilize timers and lights you already have on hand. Keep food safety in mind: avoid reusing items that have been treated with fertilizer or chemicals without thorough cleaning, as mushrooms will be in direct contact with their environment.

Substrate and Preparation

Mushrooms grow on substrates – organic materials like straw or sawdust that the mushroom mycelium digests to fuel fruiting. Each species has preferred substrates, but oyster mushrooms are famously adaptable and will grow on a wide range of materials, including straw, hardwood sawdust, coffee grounds, and paper. Lion’s Mane prefers hardwood-based substrates.

Common Substrate Choices:

Straw: Affordable and effective, especially for oysters. Wheat straw is commonly used – you cut it into short pieces and pasteurize it (in hot water or lime) to kill off most competing microbes. Oysters colonize pasteurized straw quickly. DIY level: moderate (requires a large pot or drum to heat water). It is a great budget choice.
Hardwood Sawdust: Often used for Lion’s Mane and also oysters. Typically, in pellet form (wood stove pellets), which you hydrate into sawdust. For better yields, sawdust is often supplemented with bran or soy hulls to provide additional nutrients. Masters’ mix, a popular formula for high yield, is a 50/50 blend of hardwood sawdust and soy hulls – excellent for Lion’s Mane and oysters, but it must be sterilized (pressure-cooked) due to its nutritional richness. DIY level: advanced (requires pressure cooker). Many beginners skip supplementation at first and use plain straw or minimally supplemented substrates.
Coffee Grounds / Garden Waste: Oysters can even grow on spent coffee or cardboard in a pinch. While it’s tempting to use free waste streams, be aware that used coffee grounds are highly prone to contamination if not processed correctly. If you experiment here, pasteurize and use a high spawn ratio. It’s doable, but for reliable results, stick to straw or sawdust for your first tries.

Preparing Substrate (Pasteurization vs. Sterilization): If you purchase ready-made substrate blocks, you can proceed directly to inoculation. If preparing your own:

Pasteurization (for straw or similar): This process involves heating the moist substrate to ~160–180 °F for 1–2 hours, which kills most bacteria and molds while not completely sterilizing. Methods: boiling straw in a large pot or pouring boiling water into a cooler of straw (the “bucket tek”). After pasteurizing, drain and cool the straw. It should be moist but not dripping (aim for a water content of ~60% – when squeezed, a few drops should come out, not a stream). Chemical pasteurization with lime is another method but less common for beginners.
Sterilization (for enriched sawdust): If you use nutrients like bran or a dense sawdust block, you must sterilize (250 °F under pressure) to kill all spores. This means using a pressure cooker or autoclave. You’d load your substrate into filter-patch grow bags and pressure cook for ~2 hours at 15 PSI. For a beginner with no pressure cooker, a workaround is to use hardwood pellets and hot water, known as “super pasteurization.” Many have succeeded just hydrating fuel pellets with boiling water in a bucket – the heat and the fact that pellets were heat-processed during manufacture can be enough to get going without proper sterilization. This can be especially beneficial for oysters, although the yield may be slightly lower than that of a thoroughly sterilized, supplemented substrate.

Choose a method that fits your comfort level. Summary: Start with pasteurized straw (more manageable, lower equipment cost) unless you have a pressure cooker ready.

Spawn Rate: The proportion of spawn to bulk substrate. Higher spawn rates enable colonies to expand more quickly, reducing the risk of contamination. 5–10% spawn by wet weight is a typical minimum (e.g., 0.5 lb. spawn per 5 lb. wet substrate). Oysters can even fruit with lower spawn rates, but as a beginner, err on the higher side (10–20%) for speed. Lion’s Mane primarily benefits from a higher spawn rate since its mycelium can be a bit slower to establish.

Step-by-Step Growing Instructions (All Species)

Follow these general steps for all five types of mushrooms. We’ll note any species-specific tweaks in later sections, but the overall process is similar:

1. Obtain Spawn (or Kits): For a first grow, buying grain spawn is the easiest route. You can purchase spawns for each species from mushroom suppliers. Upon arrival, check that the spawn bag is entirely white (colonized) with no foul odors or green or black patches (signs of contamination). Keep the spawn refrigerated if not using it immediately – but plan to use it within a few weeks for optimal viability. Alternative: “Spray & grow” ready-to-fruit kits (blocks that just need to be cut open and misted) are even more straightforward if you want to test one crop first, although they cost more per yield.

2. Prepare the Substrate: As described above. For example, pasteurize straw by submerging it in hot water at ~170 °F for 1 hour. Let it cool and drain. If using pelletized sawdust, pour boiling water to hydrate (typically 1-part pellets to ~1.5–2 parts boiling water by weight, including any supplements); then cover and let it cool. The result should be a moist, fluffy substrate. Break up any clumps. Work in a clean area – wipe down counters with disinfectant and wear clean gloves.

3. Inoculate (Mix Spawn and Substrate): Once the substrate is cooled to room temperature, it’s time to mix in the spawn (inoculation). Tip: This step doesn’t require a fully sterile technique since your substrate is pasteurized and the spawn is robust; however, clean hands and tools are still helpful. In a large tub or clean bin, layer the spawn and substrate or mix them thoroughly by hand. Ensure spawn is evenly distributed – you want little grains of spawn spread throughout so they can “infect” the whole batch. Aim for a homogeneous mix. If using bags, fill each grow bag with the inoculated substrate and gently pack it down to remove air pockets; the bag should feel like a firm pillow. Leave some slack at the top to tie off or fold the bag.

4. Incubation (Colonization Phase): Place the inoculated bags/containers in a warm, dark, or dim area to colonize. Most species colonize fastest at ~70–75 °F. Light isn’t necessary at this stage – you can tuck them in a closet or cover them with a dark cloth. Lion’s Mane and Blue Oysters prefer slightly cooler (mid-60s) but will colonize at room temp fine; Pink Oysters love warmth (they’ll colonize even at 80–85 °F). Check your bags daily or two for progress. What to expect: The substrate will gradually turn white as mycelium spreads. This can take about 10–14 days for fast-growing species like oysters or up to 2–3 weeks for Lion’s Mane, which can be a bit slower. Don’t be surprised if you see tiny mushrooms (pins) forming inside the bag once it is fully colonized – some oysters and Lion’s Mane tend to “prematurely” pin if conditions are right. If that happens, it’s a sign they’re eager to fruit – you should move to fruiting conditions soon.

5. Move to Fruiting Conditions: Once the substrate is fully colonized (solid white areas, no visible un-colonized spots), introduce the bags to the fruiting chamber (your Martha tent or equivalent). In the fruiting phase, you’ll provide fresh air, high humidity, and some light to trigger the mushrooms to form. Cut openings in the bags for the mushrooms to emerge. For oyster bags: use a clean knife to cut X-shaped slits or a series of 1–2-inch holes in the plastic. Most growers cut 1–4 holes per 5-lb bag – fewer holes will channel all energy into larger clusters, while many holes give more but smaller mushrooms. For Lion’s Mane: often just cut a small “X” or one hole where you see a primordium (puffball) forming, as this mushroom will form a single ball-like fruit per hole. If using a bucket or other container, ensure it has holes or an open-top to allow the mushrooms to grow out.

Place the prepared blocks on the shelves in your humidified tent. Space them a few inches apart so mushrooms have room to grow without bumping into each other or the walls.

6. Maintain Fruiting Conditions: Set your humidifier to maintain a humidity level of around 90% relative humidity (RH) initially. Mushrooms form best in very humid air – their pins won’t dry out and abort. If you see condensation on the tent walls, that’s a good sign (just not dripping directly on mushrooms). Many growers aim for relative humidity (RH) of nearly 95% until pin formation occurs, then lower it to 85–90% to reduce bacterial issues. Provide 12 hours of light (a simple day/night cycle). The light can be indirect; even a bright room is acceptable, or a low-intensity grow light can be used in the tent. Ensure some fresh air exchange: if you have a fan system, set it on a timer (e.g., 15 minutes every few hours or a small continuous trickle). If manual, open the tent and let it air out in fresh air a couple of times daily. You want to prevent CO₂ buildup beyond ~800–1000 ppm during fruiting – high CO₂ causes long spindly stems on oysters. Blue Oysters especially demand lots of oxygen, whereas Lion’s Mane is more forgiving with CO₂. Keep an eye on the temperature: fruiting mushrooms often do well at a slightly cooler temperature than during incubation. If you can manage 60–70 °F, that covers all species reasonably. (Pink Oysters are the outliers, preferring the high end of that or above, but they’ll still fruit at 70 °F albeit slightly slower.)

7. Watch for Pinning: After 3–7 days in fruiting conditions, you should see pins (tiny mushroom buds) poking out of the cut holes. Pink and golden oysters pin very quickly, often within 3–5 days of fruiting, due to their aggressive nature. Blue oysters might take a bit longer, 5–10 days, if the water is warm. Lion’s Mane usually forms a puffball that enlarges over a week or more. This is the exciting part – maintain your conditions and avoid disturbing the blocks except for necessary air exchange and misting.

8. Ongoing Care: As the mushrooms develop, avoid directly spraying the developing pins; instead, mist the air or walls of the tent to keep humidity up. Excessive water directly on mushrooms can promote bacterial growth or deform the growth. You’ll notice oysters form clusters of many caps. If caps seem to have very long stems and tiny caps, they need more fresh air – increase FAE. If caps crack or look dry, increase humidity. Lion’s Mane will start forming “teeth” or spines as it matures (looking like a pom-pom with icicles).

Ensure your humidifier's water is clean; use distilled or filtered water, if possible, to prevent mineral buildup. Check daily that everything is running smoothly. Mushrooms grow fast once they start – pink oyster clusters can double in size in a day or two.

9. Harvesting: Each species has signs when it’s prime to pick:

Oysters (all types): Best harvested just as the caps begin to flatten out but before they release a lot of spores. For blue, golden, Italian oysters, this is when the rim of the cap is nearly horizontal (oyster caps start convex and then flatten). If the edges start to curl up, they are past their prime and are about to release spores in large quantities. Pink oysters, especially, should be cut slightly early – their caps may not become very flat, so pick them when they’ve grown to a good size and before the edges curl. You can also observe spore load: for pink and golden if you see colored dust accumulating beneath, they’re dropping spores – harvest immediately to avoid a messy spore dump (pink oyster spores are bright pink and can cover your grow space!). Harvest method: Use a clean knife to cut the entire cluster off at the base (where it meets the substrate). Try not to disturb the block too much, as it can produce more flushes.
Lion’s Mane: Harvest when the mushroom teeth/spines are elongated (perhaps 1/4–1/2 inch long) but still white. If it starts to get a tan or brownish color on top, it’s getting a bit old. Typically, once the teeth have formed and stopped expanding significantly, you can cut it off. Lion’s Mane can get quite large (softball-sized); some will harvest slightly earlier for a more tender texture. Use a knife to slice at the base of the “snowball.”. Handle gently – the teeth bruise easily, which can shorten their shelf life.

Yield: In this first flush (first harvest wave), expect roughly 0.5 to 1 pound of mushrooms per 5 lb. substrate bag for oysters, sometimes more. Blue Oysters are known to be heavy yielders – with ideal care, they can reach a biological efficiency of 100–200% (meaning up to 2 lbs. from 1 lb. of substrate). Lion’s Mane often yields 1+ lb. per block in the first flush and can total 2+ lbs. over multiple flushes. Pink and golden oysters yield a bit less; a 5 lb. block might give around one lb. first flushsince their mushrooms are lighter and less dense. Many factors affect yield, so don’t worry if you get a bit less on your first try. Quality and successful fruiting is a win for now!

10. Subsequent Flushes: Most mushroom blocks will produce at least 2–3 flushes. After the first harvest, let the block rest for ~1 week. During this time, the mycelium recovers and may “recharge.” Keep the block in the fruiting chamber to maintain humidity. You may want to reduce misting for a few days to prevent waterlogging the cut surface. Some growers dunk the block in clean water for a couple of hours after a flush to rehydrate it. If you do, be sure to let it drain well and watch for contamination. Soon, you should see new pins forming, often near the old cut sites or sometimes from a new spot if the bag has other openings. Harvest subsequent flushes similarly. Note that second and third flushes are usually smaller. Golden Oyster, in particular, often has a minimal second flush – they tend to put out most of their yield upfront, whereas Blue Oyster and Lion’s Mane often give good second flushes. If contamination (such as green mold) appears or yields drop off, it’s time to retire the block.

11. Completion and Cleanup: Once a block is spent, you can dispose of the substrate. The spent mushroom substrate is an excellent compost for gardens. You can mix it into your compost pile or work it into soil – it’s rich in organic matter. If you keep backyard chickens, they also love pecking apart old mushroom straw logs. Clean your grow tent periodically: after a couple of cycles, wipe down the walls and shelves with vinegar or a diluted bleach solution to kill any lurking mold spores. Oyster mushrooms release a large number of spores, which can lead to dust buildup. Always start new batches with clean bags and fresh substrate.

That’s the basic cycle! Now, let’s examine each of the five species and note their specific needs and cultivation characteristics.

Species-Specific Tips and Conditions

Each mushroom species has its preferred habitat. Here’s a rundown of our five:

Lion’s Mane (Hericium Erinaceus)

Lion’s Mane forming thick “pom-pom” fruiting bodies with dangling spines. Description: An unusual, toothed fungus that grows as a white pom-pom. It tastes mildly sweet or like lobster when cooked – a great culinary and medicinal mushroom. In cultivation, it forms softball-sized clusters of icicle-like spines (the mushroom’s “teeth”).

Optimal Temperature: Fruiting: ~60–68 °F is ideal. It can fruit in the low 70s but forms the nicest, dense fruits in cooler temperatures. During incubation, a room temperature of ~70–75 °F is suitable. However, when you observe pinning, try to expose the plants to cooler air (some growers even cold-shock at 59 °F to encourage pinning).
Humidity: High (90–95%) at pinning and early growth. Once the spines are growing, you can maintain a growth rate of ~85–90%. Avoid direct mist on the developing spines – they bruise easily.
Substrate: Performs best on hardwood-based substrates. Commonly grown on supplemented sawdust (hardwood sawdust + bran) or on “masters mix.” If you don’t have sterilization ability, you can fruit Lion’s Mane on pasteurized fuel pellets with minimal supplementation – use a high spawn rate to outcompete contaminants. Not typically grown on straw (nutrient needs are higher), though some have succeeded with heavy supplementation.
Colonization: Medium speed. Expect ~2 weeks to colonize a five lb. block at 70–75 °F. The mycelium often looks wispy or thin compared to oysters, so don’t be alarmed if it’s not as thick; it may still be fully colonized. It also tends to fruit early in the bag, so watch for lumps forming before full colonization. If so, go ahead and cut the bag there to let it fruit.
Fruiting & Yield: After moving to fruiting conditions, small snowball-like primordia appear (often at the bag cut) and then enlarge over ~5–10 days into full Lion’s Mane mushrooms. Yield: Approximately 1.5–2 lbs. per 5 lb. block over 2–3 flushes is common. Typically, the first flush yields around one lb. or slightly more, while the second flush is approximately 0.5 lb. Use a high spawn rate (15–20%) for the best chances – Lion’s Mane sometimes has trouble fully colonizing if the spawn is low.
Special Tips: Lion’s Mane doesn’t need as much fresh air as oysters – it can handle slightly higher CO₂ without issue. This means you can adjust the fan setting slightly; excessive airflow can dry out the forming teeth. The fruits bruise easily, turning orange or brown when touched, so harvest them gently and refrigerate them soon after picking. If handled carefully, they can last around a week in the refrigerator; however, they will eventually begin to yellow or become bitter if stored for too long. Best to sell or eat Lion’s Mane fresh within a few days of harvest for top quality.

Golden Oyster (Pleurotus Citrinopileatus)

Golden Oyster mushrooms produce vibrant yellow clusters with delicate, thin caps.

Description: Also called Yellow Oyster, this mushroom grows in beautiful bright golden-yellow clusters. It’s a warm-weather oyster species native to Asia. The caps are smaller and more delicate than those of other oysters, resembling a flower. They are a showstopper at markets for their vibrant color, although their shelf life is short.

Optimal Temperature: Fruiting: ~64–77 °F (18–25 °C) is a good range. They tolerate warmer conditions better than cold – and can even fruit up to ~86 °F, making them suitable for summer growing. They fruit best in warm, humid conditionssimilar to a summer. Try not to go below 60°F; they are truly a warm-loving strain.
Humidity & Air: Aim for 85–95% humidity for fruiting. Golden oysters don’t require as much fresh air as blues – medium FAE is fine (their thin caps still benefit from decent oxygen, but they won’t get as leggy as blue oysters under moderate CO₂). They are often grown in large, hanging straw logs, which allow for natural airflow through the holes.
Substrate: Straw logs or supplemented sawdust blocks work well. Straw tends to yield numerous small mushrooms quickly; sawdust can produce slightly thicker caps but similar yields overall. You can choose based on convenience. No casing layer is needed.
Colonization: Very fast on straw – often fully colonized in 7–10 days. On sawdust, maybe 10–14 days. They usually start pinning as soon as they’re ready, sometimes even in the incubation room if the humidity is high.
Fruiting & Yield: Flush timing: Golden oysters will pin and mature quickly – sometimes ready to harvest just 4–5 days after pinning. Watch them closely; the thin caps can start to curl up soon after expanding. Yield: Golden oysters have an overall lower yield compared to other oysters. Typical biological efficiency ranges from 30% to 70%. In practice, a good first flush might be 0.5 pounds from a 5-pound bag and perhaps a smaller second flush of 0.2 pounds. Often, growers focus on achieving one nice flush; secondary flushes may be very minimal, as the mycelium allocates most of its energy to flush #1.
Special Tips: Harvest promptly – the caps are extremely delicate. It’s best to cut whole clusters off at the base with a knife rather than plucking individual mushrooms, to minimize handling. Get them into cool storage quickly. Golden oysters will only last a few days fresh; they tend to wilt and lose quality quickly. Plan to sell or eat within 1–3 days. Because of this, they’re ideal for farmers’ markets, where you can pick the day of or the day before the market. Their flavor is mild – good in stir-fries or soups, but not as meaty as pearl or blue oysters. Many growers cultivate Goldens primarily as an eye-catching variety to attract customers, and they indeed turn heads with their vibrant canary-yellow hue.

Blue Oyster (Pleurotus Ostreatus, var. “Blue”)

Blue Oyster mushrooms (a young cluster is shown) start with a bluish hue that later turns gray.

Description: A variant of the common oyster mushroom known for its initial blue-grey color and preference for cooler temperatures. Blue oysters form large shelf-like caps and robust clusters. They are high-yielding and forgiving to grow, making them great for beginners – just be mindful of their high spore load and the need for fresh air.

Optimal Temperature: Fruiting - 50–65 °F is ideal for optimal form and color. They can fruit in the 60–70°F range, but the cooler the temperature, the more vivid the blue color in the pins and the nicer the caps. In warmer fruiting conditions (above 70°F), blue oysters often grow faster but are paler and may have thinner flesh. If you are fruiting in a typical room temp (~68–72 °F), that’s fine – you’ll still get mushrooms, just slightly lighter grey. Incubation: A temperature of 70–75 °F is suitable for colonization. Note: If fruiting in the upper end of their range (65–70 °F), one trick is to initiate pinning at a colder spot (50s °F) to trigger a strong mindset, then move to the growing area.
Humidity & Air: Humidity: 90–95% to induce pins, then can be ~85–90% as they grow. Fresh Air: Blue oysters have the highest fresh air requirement of the oysters. Without plenty of FAE, they will grow long, skinny stems and tiny caps, “reaching” for oxygen. So, prioritize airflow: use a fan or frequent manual fanning. Their CO₂ tolerance is very low; therefore, it is recommended to keep CO₂ levels under ~600 ppm during fruiting, if possible. Practically, this means exchanging the air in your tent multiple times an hour, if possible.
Substrate: Straw is classic for blue oysters – they gobble it up and fruit prolifically. Also great on hardwood sawdust or practically any other cellulose. They are known to “devour almost anything” – even coffee grounds or paper. For beginners, a pasteurized straw or a straw-wood mix is the most straightforward option and works well. Blue oyster mycelium is aggressive and will outcompete contaminants if given a good start.
Colonization: Very fast. A bag can colonize in 10 days or less under optimal conditions. If you peek in the bag, you may see that blue oyster mycelium produces an orange-brown liquid metabolite, sometimes – this is normal, not contamination (it’s like a “sweat”).
Fruiting & Yield: Pinning: Blue oysters often form dense clusters of pins. They tend to produce numerous small pins, which then abort or consolidate into fewer large mushrooms when CO₂ levels are high. With a good FAE, you’ll receive many medium-sized caps. Growth from pin to harvest can take ~5–7 days. Yield: Blue oysters are known for high yields – one of the highest. With optimized conditions, they can exceed 100% BE and reach up to 200% BE (meaning potentially 2 lbs. of mushroom per 1 lb. substrate!). In a practical small setup, you might see one lb. on the first flush and 0.5–1 lb. on the second. They can be flushed 2–4 times if continued, although commercial growers typically replace them after two flushes for optimal efficiency.
Special Tips: Spore alert: Blue oysters drop heavy white spore loads when they mature. If it’s left too long, you may find white dusting over everything, and breathing in oyster spores can irritate some people. So, harvest before the caps go fully flat or concave.
Storage: They keep better than pink or golden oysters. In the fridge, clusters can last about a week if handled gently. Store in a paper bag or a breathable container to prevent moisture buildup. Blue oysters often continue to grow “fuzz slowly” (mycelium) at the cut stems in the fridge – that’s harmless; trim it off. At the market, emphasize their savory flavor – many customers love these in soups, stir-fries, or even as a meat substitute due to their texture.

Pink Oyster (Pleurotus Djamor)

Pink Oyster mushrooms fruiting in vibrant, coral-pink shelves—description: The tropical beauty of the mushroom world. Pink oysters grow in bright pink, ruffled clusters that almost resemble flower petals. They grow extremely fast and are great fun to cultivate. They have a meaty, bacon-like aroma when cooked but notably short shelf life. They thrive in warm conditions but are not tolerant of cold temperatures.

Optimal Temperature: Fruiting: 75–85 °F is ideal. They love the heat – truly a tropical mushroom. They will fruit (and very quickly) at 80 °F with ease. They can fruit as low as 60–65 °F, but growth will be slower, and the color is often paler. Do not refrigerate cultures or blocks; prolonged cold will cause the pink mycelium to die off. Incubation can be done at a warm temperature (even up to 86 °F, which speeds up the process).
Humidity & Air: Humidity: ≥85% RH. Like other oysters, keep it high until it is pinning. Pink pins are vivid, deep pink, and form readily when humidity and temperature are high. Fresh Air: They have a moderate fresh air requirement – more than Kings but less than Blues. Therefore, ensure decent ventilation, but note that they are a bit more forgiving than blue oysters. You’ll still want to avoid high CO₂ levels, as they can cause elongation of stems. With good FAE, pink oysters form gorgeous rosette-like clusters.
Substrate: Straw is perfect for pink. They colonize it extraordinarily quickly, often outpacing contaminants. They also do well on sawdust blocks (and such fruits are thicker and store slightly better). They aren’t picky – any standard oyster substrate works. Many growers use straw logs hung vertically with slits; pinks will burst out all over.
Colonization: Possibly the fastest of all! The pink oyster spawn run can take 7–10 days for grain jars, and a bulk substrate bag can fully colonize in as little as one week if conditions are warm. They also often pin on their own as soon as they're ready – you might see pins in the bag even before you plan to use them.
Fruiting & Yield: Speed: Once you put them in fruiting, they usually form pins within 3–4 days, and those pins mature in another 3–5 days. In warm conditions, you can practically watch them grow. Yield: From a 5 lb. block, expect at least 1 lb of mushrooms over the first flush. They can achieve a high biological efficiency (75–150% reported) on straw, though practically, flushes after the first might be smaller. Harvest clusters when caps’ edges start to flatten. Color: They will be most vibrant when grown in warm conditions and exposed to moderate to bright light. If they grow cooler, they may become lighter pink or even whitish, and the texture can become chewier.
Special Tips: Spore load: Pinks drop LOTS of spores, and they’re conspicuously pink. Harvest before the caps flip up to avoid everything getting coated in “pink dust.” These spores can smell like old gym socks if too many are released – not a pleasant scent – so it's best to pick them at the right time. Shelf Life: Extremely short. This is key for market planning. Pink oysters can start to deteriorate within 1–2 days at room temp, and only last maybe 3–4 days in the fridge before they begin to smell of urine/ammonia (a byproduct of their breakdown). Customers should use them immediately. Positively convey this at the market (e.g., “Best cooked fresh! These don’t contain preservatives, so use within 2–3 days.”). To mitigate short shelf life, plan fruiting so that you harvest the morning of or the day before a market. Keep harvested clusters in a paper bag refrigerated until sale. Also, note that pink oysters lose their color when cooked, turning a tan or gray color. This is normal, but you might want to mention it so customers aren’t surprised. Their flavor can be reminiscent of bacon, and they crisp up nicely when sautéed.

Italian Oyster (Pleurotus Pulmonarius / “Phoenix” Oyster)

Description: Often called Phoenix Oyster or Italian Oyster, this species is very similar to the common pearl oyster but adapted to warmer temperatures. Caps are typically tan or off-white, and they tend to develop a slightly longer stem when CO₂ levels are high. We include it because it’s a great choice for summer or if your growing area runs warm. (Many cultures sold as “Italian oysters” are likely a strain of P. Pulmonarius.)

Optimal Temperature: Fruiting: 65–80 °F. They fruit well in the 70s, hence why they are summer oysters. They can tolerate temperatures of up to ~90 °F in terms of mycelial growth and fruiting, provided there is sufficient humidity. A study notes that P. Pulmonarius can fruit easily from 60 °F to 80 °F. It’s flexible but generally prefers slightly warmer fruiting conditions than the Blue or Pearl oyster. Incubation: 75–85 °F is excellent for colonization (faster at the higher end).
Humidity & Air: Humidity: 85–90% for fruiting. Air: Similar to other oysters; moderate to high FAE. If they are grown in very warm conditions, they might need extra air to prevent long stems. One advantage: Italian oysters often grow an elongated stem in nature, as they fruit on logs with a lateral stem. In cultivation, if CO₂ levels are slightly high, they will form a longer stem but still produce a decent cap. So, they might be a bit more forgiving if the air isn’t perfect (where Blue oysters would get nearly all stem). Still, provide good ventilation for the best results.
Substrate: Same as other oysters – straw, sawdust, etc. They will happily grow on straw logs or supplemented sawdust. Not demanding about substrate type.
Colonization: Fast. They are very comparable to pearl or blue oysters. 10–12 days on straw to full colonization is typical. They also don’t mind higher incubation temps (they can colonize quickly at 80–85 °F without issues).
Fruiting & Yield: They fruit in pretty clusters with slightly smaller caps than pearl oysters. The color may be white, cream, or light brown, depending on the strain. Yield: On par with common oyster – around 100% BE or more in total. Expect approximately 0.5–1 lb. of first flush from a small bag, followed by additional flushes. They tend to be robust producers. Many growers appreciate that in hot weather, pearl oysters suffer, but Pulmonarius continues to produce mushrooms. Harvest like other oysters when caps flatten.
Special Tips: Because the “Italian” oyster is basically an adaptable oyster for warm conditions, you can treat it much like the regular oyster in cultivation. It’s a good substitute for Pink Oysters if you want something less perishable but still able to fruit in the summer heat (since Italian oysters have a better shelf life and a more familiar oyster taste). Keep an eye out for small beetles or flies if growing in warm environments – the sweet smell of oyster mushrooms can attract bugs in a greenhouse or garage during the summer. Use fine mesh on any openings to maintain cleanliness and prevent pests from laying eggs on your fruits.

Integrating with a Microgreens Operation

One perk of growing mushrooms alongside microgreens is the potential for a symbiotic environment. Plants and fungi have opposite gas needs: plants (microgreens) produce oxygen and consume CO₂, while mushrooms consume oxygen and produce CO₂. In a shared space, they can complement each other’s gas exchange needs. Some growers intentionally collocate microgreen and mushroom growing areas so that the CO₂ from mushroom incubation enhances microgreen growth, and the O₂ from the microgreens aerates the mushrooms. For example, you could colonize mushroom bags on a shelf below your microgreen benches – the mushrooms release CO₂, which could slightly raise levels around the greens (potentially enhancing plant growth), and the greens are steadily photosynthesizing above, replenishing O₂ for the mushrooms. This isn’t a critical setup, but it’s a neat natural pairing that mimics a mini ecosystem.

Shared Space Considerations: If you share a room, remember that mushrooms require high humidity during fruiting – far higher than microgreens prefer. It’s usually best to keep the fruiting chamber enclosed (as with a Martha tent) so humidity is localized for mushrooms. Your microgreens sitting outside the tent remain at regular moisture. The mushrooms’ CO₂ is mainly produced during incubation when the bags are closed, as the colonization phase tends to generate a significant amount of CO₂. You can incubate bags on racks in the same room as actively growing microgreens – the microgreens won’t mind the extra CO₂ at all. They grow fine even in reasonably high CO₂ environments as long as they have light and O₂ at night. Just ensure that no mushroom pests, such as fungus gnats, hop to your microgreens or vice versa – maintaining cleanliness helps. If you notice mold in a mushroom bag, remove it promptly to prevent the spread of spores to your greens.

Resource Sharing: Spent mushroom substrate can be a valuable addition to your compost for growing microgreens or in the garden. After a couple of flushes, break apart the straw or sawdust block and add it to the compost. It’s partially decomposed and can enrich the soil. You may also consider using composted substrate as a soil amendment for field crops or in vermicomposting. Ensure it is thoroughly cooled and no longer hot, with no mycelial activity, before mixing it into the plant beds.

Crop Scheduling: Microgreens usually harvest on a 1–3-week cycle, whereas mushrooms (from inoculation to first harvest) might be ~3–5 weeks, depending on the species. You can stagger start times so that you have fresh mushroom flushes aligning with market days and fresh microgreen trays each week. For instance, if you do a weekly farmer’s market, plan to start a new batch of mushroom substrate every 1–2 weeks. That way, after the initial ramp-up, you’ll have at least one species fruiting each market week. Oysters especially can be timed – e.g. start a pink oyster bag 10 days before the market to have it fruiting right on time. Keep notes on how long each species takes to mature in your conditions to flower and fruit; then, you can work backward from your target harvest day.

Farmers’ Market Presentation: Having both microgreens and mushrooms at your stall can attract a broader range of customers. Some tips for presenting mushrooms:

Keep Mushrooms Fresh: Since mushrooms (especially these varieties) are best fresh, harvest them as late as possible. For markets, a cooler with ice packs placed under the table can be used to store extra harvested mushrooms, and you can periodically refill your display to keep them fresh. Avoid direct sun or wind on your mushrooms at the stall – it will dry them out. A moist towel draped in your display basket (not touching the mushrooms directly, but to increase humidity) can help. Blue and Italian oysters will hold up best on the table. Pinks and goldens are delicate – consider bringing them in a cooler and only putting out small batches at a time so they don’t wilt.
Packaging: Many growers sell clusters of oysters in open baskets or paper bags so they can breathe. You can pre-weigh portions (e.g., 1/4 lb or 1/2 lb clusters) and place them in paper bags for convenience; however, customers often prefer to select their mix. If you already pack microgreens in clamshells, do not use closed plastic clamshells for mushrooms – with their respiration, they’ll sweat and spoil faster. Stick to breathable packaging; paper bags are ideal. Have a roll of paper bags on hand at your booth for mushroom sales.
Display: Use shallow baskets or produce boxes and consider adding a small sign or chalkboard to indicate the type of mushroom and the price per pound or bag. The colors of pink and golden oysters are a huge draw – you might even use them as an eye-catching centerpiece; remember to keep them fresh. For Lion’s Mane, customers might not recognize it – a fun idea is to have a sample jar of dried Lion’s Mane or a photo of it growing to spark conversation. You can describe its crab-cake-like cooking potential or health benefits to entice buyers.
Cross-selling: You can suggest recipe ideas that use both mushrooms and microgreens (e.g., a stir-fry with oyster mushrooms and a microgreen garnish or Lion’s Mane “crab cakes” topped with microgreen salad). This can encourage customers to buy both products. If permitted by market rules, you could offer a small tasting sample, such as sautéed oyster mushrooms, to draw people in.
Signage & Info: Educate customers about these specialty mushrooms. Many people have never seen pink or golden mushrooms. A sign could read, “Locally Grown Gourmet Mushrooms – Pink Oyster, Blue Oyster, Lion’s Mane,” with brief descriptions. Emphasize freshness (“Picked this morning!”) and, if applicable, “Chemical-free, grown on recycled agricultural byproducts” (if you used straw, etc., sustainability could be a selling point).

By integrating mushrooms into your microgreens workflow, you diversify your product line and utilize space more efficiently. Plus, the “wow factor” of exotic mushrooms can attract new customers, who may then also buy your greens. With careful planning, your indoor mini-farm will produce a continuous supply of greens and fungi.

Conclusion & Next Steps

You now have a comprehensive overview to begin growing Lion’s Mane and gourmet oyster mushrooms in a compact indoor setup. Start small – perhaps inoculate a couple of bags of oyster mushrooms first to get the hang of it. Mushrooms are very much a learning-by-doing endeavor, so don’t be discouraged by minor setbacks. Each species will teach you something new about the art of cultivation. Soon enough, you’ll be harvesting flushes of delicious mushrooms to complement your microgreen sales. Remember to enjoy the process – there’s something magical about watching a tiny pin turn into a beautiful mushroom in just a few days. Good luck, and happy growing up!